Mumbai, July 05: Last month when I got a call for a concert in Kabul, Iwas completely taken aback. For so manyyears now, one has heard about Afghanistan for all the wrong reasons. I was in twominds. Inquiries revealed the bonafides ofthe invitation. Despite some of my friends advising me against it, Idecided to make the trip. Thankfully my music companion Jeetu Shankar, the tabla maestro, also agreed and we were on our way.
Talat Aziz was completely taken aback when he got a call for a concert in Kabul.
Into unknown territory
We landed in Kabul where a couple of Kabul Bank officials (the hosts) were there to receive us.As soon as we left the airport, we ran into a security blanket that continued all through the 12 km drive to the hotel. I’ve never seen so many armed policemen and security checkpoints. Even when we reached our hotel, there were four more checkpoints to pass. But once inside the massive gates of the hotel — strong enough to withstand an attackingtank — we were treated no less than royalty.
New discoveries
I woke early the next morning eager to take in the hotel’s surroundings. But I had to take permission from hotel security to venture outside it’s heavy gates, manned by AK 47-wielding commandos. I tried to talk with them but apart from one, none of them spoke English or understood Hindi. But when I managed to convey that I was a singer from India, their eyes lit up, though they seemed quite battle hardened veterans.
Kabul streets
Giving in to my desire to see the city, I was accompanied by a gentleman named Ahmed in his bullet proof car. I have to tell you that taking photos in Kabul is a sensitive matter. If you are on your own, it’s a risky thing, but I was fortunate enough to have the bank’s influence work for me. We were taken to a place where the the gates were locked with armed guards posted outside. But one phone call, and lo, the gates swung open to reveal a beautiful palace called Bagh-e-Bala. I believe during the time of the las’ king, Zahir Shah, it served as the State guest house for VIP’s. Attached to it was a garden, which I was told is now haunt of couples seeking privacy. Not imaginable, I suppose, during the Taliban rule.
Next stop was a palace built by Amanullah Khan the grandfather of Zahir Shah. It was a bombed out ruin, just outside the outskirts of the city. Some cute looking kids pulling at my kurta speaking in Dari. They were asking for money. I gave them some but they still hovered, asking for more. I had to make a run for the car.Further down, I spotted a sign in a city bylane that intrigued me — Institute of Music. It’s still to open its doors but the director said he planned some faculty for Indian classical music and wanted to get teachers from India. That mademe feel good.
Heartfelt
After the tour, I returned to the hotel. I was told that the country’s Vice President would also be attending along with former Foreign minister Abdullah Abdullah — who by the way, is a Presidential candidate for the elections due in August. Yes, it’s a democratic election and they have about thirty eight candidates in the fray for the post currently held by Hamid Karzai. I wished them luck. For the evening I had put together some very special Persianpoetry by Hazrat Amir Khusrau. I started the concert with this: Khabaram raseeda imshab ke nigaar khwaahi aamad, Sar-e-man fidaae raahe ke nigaar khwaahe aamad…
(My beloved is on her way, and I have put my head and soul on the path she’ll tread, in welcome…)
–Agencies–